With the 200th anniversary of Jane Austen's death last year, interest in one of her most frequent haunts, the spa city of Bath, was rekindled. With attractive Regency architecture at every turn, genteel tea rooms aplenty and the centrally located Jane Austen Centre, it's the perfect place to indulge in one's inner Mr Darcy/Lizzy Bennet fantasies. But this is a tale of three cities: the Georgian masterpiece, the Ancient Roman retreat and the trendy, modern city. A weekend break means you can take in all three sides.
Roman rituals
As its name suggests, historically Bath was first and foremost a spa town, founded upon natural hot springs. In 70AD the Roman Baths were constructed in the heart of the city, and they remain some of the best preserved Roman ruins in the world.
Visit the baths to explore the remains of ancient heated rooms, changing rooms and pools, which are still filled with 1.17 million litres of spring water reaching temperatures of up to 46C. Audio tours are available to accompanying a visit, including a guide narrated by author Bill Bryson, who delivers witticisms on all things Roman. There's also an interactive museum, costumed Roman characters and the chance to try a sip of spa water, which contains 42 minerals. Entry is £16.50 per adult.
For something a little tastier than spa water, follow up a trip to the baths with tea at the adjoining Pump Room. White tablecloths, paintings in gilt frames and a large chandelier make the place feel more Regency than Roman but the restaurant's large windows offer unparalleled views over the main pool below. Afternoon tea costs from £26 per person.
To enjoy your own Roman ritual in a more modern setting, head to the Thermae Spa. Britain's only natural thermal spa has a heated, open-air rooftop pool with spectacular views over the city, plus extensive steam room and sauna facilities. A two-hour session with full use of the spa costs from £36 per adult.
Hipster havens
Though rooted in history, Bath isn't without modern charm. Hip coffee shops, new restaurants and modern hotels elevate it above the level of a living museum.
Get your caffeine fix at Colonna & Smalls, which has a menu reminiscent of an east London craft beer bar. What's available changes each week, depending on which coffees are "in season". Although it may all sound a bit pretentious, the result is worth it, with a truly flavourful brew to savour in cool, stripped-back surroundings.
Nourish, a vegan restaurant serving dishes with up to 100 per cent plant-based ingredients, opened in the north of the city last year. Dishes include arborio and black Venus risotto with seared tenderstern broccoli, and barbecued jack fruit tacos.
When bedding down it can be hard to escape the grand, Georgian country-house-style hotels that are the mainstay of Bath accommodation. The new Apex, which opened in 2017, offers a contemporary alternative with muted grey walls and mustard curtains in the bedrooms and a modern, airy lobby waiting behind the curved stone facade of the exterior. Doubles from £94, room only.
Austen attractions
Once a stomping ground for the 18th-cnetury author, Bath is a Janeite's dream - there's even an annual Jane Austen Festival each September for fans to dress up and play at being in Regency times.
First stop for those looking to find out more is the Jane Austen Centre, a permanent exhibition in an original Georgian townhouse where visitors are instructed by costumed character guides. The attraction details Austen's time in Bath; she paid two long visits to the city before settling there from 1801 to 1806, and it forms the backdrop to both Northanger Abbey and Persuasion. The gift shop supplies the most niche Austen-related merch you never know you needed, such as an "I dream of Darcy!" pillowcase and "I'd rather be at Pemberley" compact mirror. Entry £12 per adult.
Drink in the same vistas Austen would have enjoyed by taking a stroll to Royal Crescent, a row of 30 Georgian terrace houses overlooking a sweeping green and Royal Victoria Park. Check out the Royal Assembly Rooms, too - the Ball Room, Octagon, Tea Room and Card Room were used for 18th-century socialising and are still beautifully preserved today. The lower ground floor is home to the Fashion Museum, a collection of historic and fashionable dress; entry £9 per adult.
Finish up with a meal at Salty Lunn's, one of Baath's oldest houses. Dishes are based on the original Sally Lunn bun, or Bath bun, a rich yet light brioche-style bread. Diners are treated to steaming trenchers - a bowl formed from a Sally Lunn bun filled with hearty stews ranging from slow-cooked ham hock to spiced baked squash and aubergine.